Sewing-machine.



. H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG-17' I914.

Patented May 7,1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET I.

am: I m

C. H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED AUG. 17, 1914.

2 T F. E H A S T E E H S 3 Patented May 7,

C. H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG- 17, 1914.

I Patented May 7,1918.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

CHRISTIAN II. T. nAenLsTEIN, or BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, AssIcnon To THEREECE BUTTON HOLE MAcHINE coI/IP nY, or BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ACORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May a, rare.

Application filed August 17, 1914. Serial No. 857,053.

lowing description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is aspecification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

This inventionrelates to sewing machines of that type which are used forinserting a line of stitching or reinforcing stitches to stay orreinforce a fabric at any given point. Such sewing machines are commonlyused for inserting a reinforcing line of stitching across. the end orends of buttonholes or across the ends of the side pocket opening introusers, and in manyother parts of garments where it is desired toreinforce the fabric so as toprevent it from tearing or glving Way.

The objects of my invention are to provide a novel sewing machine forthis purpose whichis comparatively simple in construction and which isadapted to form the required reinforcement by two sets of stitches, thestitches on one set extending transversely of the opening-to bereinforced and the stitches of the other set extending transversely ofthe first-named stitches and prefcrablyoverlying the latter.

In order to give an understanding of the invention T have illustrated inthe drawing a selected embodiment thereof which will now be describedandthe novel features of the invention will then be pointed out in theappended claims.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a side view' of a sewing machineembodying my invention;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary perspective view ("showing the character of thestitches formed by the machine andalso'showing the operation of thethread-cutting mechanism;

Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the sewing ma: chine shown in Fig. 1 withpart of the base broken out to show the operating mechanism;

Fig. 4 is a side view of the base with a part broken out to show theinterior mechanism;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged section on the line 5-5, Fig. 3

Fig. 6 is a bottom plan view of the machine;

Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail view of the thread-cutting mechanism;

F 1g. 8 is a section on the line 8-8, Fig. 7. I

Fig. 9 is a section on the line 9-9, Fig. 6.

Before describing in detail the construction herein illustrated, I willrefer to Fig. 2 which illustrates the character of the stitches formedby the sewing machine. Fig. 2 shows these stitches as used for stayingor barring the end of a buttonhole, but it will be understood that thisis only one use to which the machine canbe put and that the staying orreinforcing stitches shown in Fig. 2 may be used for tacking orreinforcing a garment at the ends of pocket openings, or

in any other place where such reinforcement is necessary. In the tradethis operation of inserting reinforcing stitches at the ends ofbuttonhol'es, pocket openings, etc., is usually referred to as tackingand a sewing machine adapted for inserting these reinforcing or tackingstitches is sometimes referred to as a tacker. 1

The machine herein illustrated is constructed so that at each operationit will insert two .sets of reinforcing stitches, the stitches of oneset extending transversely of the opening to be tacked or stayed, andthe stitches of the other set extending longitudinally of the openingand transversely of the stitches of the first set. For instance, in

Fig. 2, one set of stitches is illustrated at 1,

and these extend transversely of the buttonhole or other opening 3,there being any desired number of these stitches 1 and of any desiredlength, depending on the mechanical construction of the machine. Thestitches of the second set are shown at 2, and these extend transverselyof the stitches 1 and longitudinally of the opening 3, the line ofstitches 2 extending from one end to the other of the stitches 1. In themachine herein illustrated the stitches 1 are first formed and after theproper number have been inserted the stitches 2 are formed, the latterstitches overlyingthe stitches 1.

The" stitches 1 and 2 are formed by stitch-v forming mechanism includingthe usual needle 4 and shuttle 5, and the latter may be either of therotary or oscillatory type as desired. The stitch-forming mechanism issustained in a frame of any suitable or usual I timed relation to effectfirst a transverse viconstruction, that herein shown comprising .thebase member 7 having the overhanging arm or bracket 8 sustainedtherefrom in which reciprocates the needle bar, 9 to WlllCh the needle 4is secured. This needle bar is operated from the driving shaft 6 by anysuitable means, the shaft being herein shown as having an eccentric 11'thereon which actuates a lever 10 pivoted to the arm through aconnection 12, said lever 10 being connected holding member 18, in whichthe shuttle operates, any suitable" or usual mechanism being employedfor communicating motlon from the actuator 17 tothe shuttle.

The work 19 into which the staying ortacking stitches 1 and 2 are to beinserted is sustained in a work clamp comprising two clamping members 20and 21. In order to produce the two stitches 1 and 2 means are providedfor moving the work clamp 20, 21 in two different directions, said workclamp being v1- brated laterally to eifect the formation of the stitches1 and then being vibrated longitudinally and gradually moved laterallytoefl'ect the formation of the stitches 2. The means for thus operatingthe work clamp comprises actuating cams, preferably situated withinthe'base frame 7 and actuated from the driving shaft 6, these camsacting in proper bratorymovement of the work clamp and then alongitudinal vibratory movement and a gradual continuous transversemovement. The work clamp herein illustrated is best seen in Figs. 1, 3and 5. The two clampin members 20 and 21- are movable toward an fromeach other so thatthey can be separated to permit the work to beinserted between-gthem or removed therefrom. Each clamping memberlsherein shown as div ded longitudinally to form two sections or parts,

the two parts of the lower clamping member which the corresponding uppermember is pivoted, as at 25. This construction permits the upper memberto be swung away from the lower member, as shown by dotted lines Fig. 5thereby to open the clamp. The upper member of the clamp hasconnected toits rear.end a stud 50 which is slidably mounted in a block 103 that inturn is slidably mounted in ways 104 in the top 34 of the base frame,and means are provided for and the longitudinal vibratory drawing thestud 50 downwardly to open the clamp. As herein shown the stud 50 has atits lower end a collar 105 which is adapted to be engaged by the forkedarm 106 on the rock shaft 107, the latter having an arm 108 thereon towhich a chain or other connection 109 is secured that leads to atreadle. By drawing downward on the connection 109 the stud 50 will beforced downwardly through the block 103 thereby opening the clamp. Aspring 110 confined between the upper and lower lamping members servesto automatically close the clamps.

As stated above means are providedzfor giving the work clamp 20, 21vibratory movements in two directions, one movement 7 being transverselto effect the formation of the stitches 1 an the other movement beinglongitudinally to effect the formation of the stitches 2. The transversevibrato movement is effected through the operat10n of a cam groove 26formed in' a cam member 27, movement is effected through the operationof a cam groove 28 formed in a cam member I 29. These two cam members 27and 29 are actuated from the main driving shaft 6 and in the presentembodiment of the invention they are rigid with a worm gear 30 that isrotatably mounted on a stud 31 secured to the base frame 7, and isdriven by means of a worm 32 fast on the driving shaft 6. Theconstruction is such that one complete rotation of the worm gear 30 willcarry the machine through its cycle of operations and effect theformationof the'complete stay or reinforce comprising both sets ofstitches l and 2.

The v mechanism herein illustratedfor giv-- in the transverse movementto the clam wi 1 now be described. The stud 50 constitutes a pivotalconnection about which the clampingmembers can swing laterally and thesections of the lower clamping member are secured to and are carried by.a stud 33 which extends through an opening in the top 34 of the baseframe 7 and is capable of transverse movement therein. As herein shown,each clamping section 22 has an inclined slot 35 therein through whichextends a fin or web 36 rising from the stud 33. These fins or webs 36are of less length than the slots 35, as plainly seen in Fig. 3,

the reason for which will presently be described. The stud 33 is securedto and carried by a connecting member 37 which is pivotally secured at38 to one arm of an elbow lever 39 that in turn is pivoted to the baseframe7 at 40. The other arm of this elbow lever is pivotally connectedto a connecting member 42 that is connected at 43 to an arm 44 pivotedon a vertically-extending rock shaft 45 that is mounted in suitablebearings carried by the base frame, said rock shaft having rigidtherewith an arm 46 which carries a roll 47 that operates in the camgroove 26. The cam groove 26 is formed wlth the sinuous portion 48 andwith the stepped portion 49 that carries the cam groove by steps fromone to the other end of the sinuous portion 48. The sinuous portion 48of the cam groove is that which is efiective in the formation of thestitches 1 and the stepped portion 49 is operative during the formationof the stitches 2. As the cam rotates in the direction of the arrow aFig. 6, and the roll 47 passes through the sinuous portion 48 of the camgroove, the arms 46 and 44 will be given a vibratory movement which willbe communicated through the connection 42,

elbow lever 39 and connection 37 to the work clamp thereby to give thelatter its vibratory motion. The connecting member 42 is preferablyadjustably connected to the elbow lever 39 so as to provide for givingthe work clamp a greater or less transverse vibratory movement with thesame cam 27. This adjustable connection is herein provided for by makingone arm of the elbow lever With the slot 41 in which the connectingmember 42 is adjustably mounted.

The connections for giving the clamping member the transverse movementfrom the cam groove 28 comprise a lever arm 51 pivoted to the base frameat 52 and carrying at its end a roll or projection 530 that operates inthe cam groove 28, and another lever arm 54 pivoted to the. base frameat 55 and connected tothe stud 50, and a connecting member 53 pivotallyconnecting said lever arms. The cam groove 28 is provided with aconcentric portion 56 and the sinuous portion 57, the concentric andsinuous portions 56 and 57 being so situated that the concentric 56 willbe acting on the roll 530 during the time that the sinuous portion 48 ofthe cam groove 26 is operatin on the cam roll '47, while the sinuousport1on 57 of the cam groove28 is operating on the roll 530 atthe timethat the stepped portion 49 of the cam groove 26 is acting on the roll47. As a re suit when the cam member 29 operates the work clamp will beheld from longitudinal movement while the roll '530 is operating in theconcentric portion 56 of the cam oove, and said work clamp will bevibrated 101igitlldinally as the roll passes throughfthe sinuous portion57 of the cam groove. The combined action of these two cam grooves 26and 28 result-in the formation of the stitches 1 and 2, as will now beobvious.

The parts are shown in Figs. 3 and 6 in the position of rest.

been started up the sinuous portion 48 of the cam groove 26 operates togive the transverse movement to the work clamp to form the stitches 1,and during this time the roll 530 is operating inthe concentric portion56 of the cam groove 28 and thus holding the work When work has beeninserted in the clamp and the machine has.

clamp from longitudinal movement. en the cams have turned so as to carrythe roll 47 into the stepped portion 49 of the cam groove 26, then theroll 530 enters the sinuous portion 57 of the cam groove 28 and the workclamp is then given a longitudinal vibrating movement thereby to effectthe formation of the stitches 2. During this longicans are provided forautomatically contracting the work clamp when the machine starts up sothat the cloth will be relieved of all tension and will be gatheredslightlyv while the stitches are being formed therein. Tt will beremembered that the work clamp is divided longitudinally to constitutetwo sections, and these sections are brought together slightly after thework is clamped therein and when the machine starts up and are held insuch position thereby to close the opening in the goods or gather thefabric together while the stitches are being formed, said work clampresuming its initial position when the stitching operation is completed.The advantage of this is that the tacking or stay-stitching tends tohold the opening closed .and takes all the strain from the fabric whichwould tend to tear-the lat: ter. This contracting of the work clamp isaccomplished by a slight movement of the member 37 toward the front ofthe machine at the time that the machine starts. It will be noted thatthe slots- 35 are slightly inclined and that they are longer than thefins 36, so that the latter can move in the slots. Hence any movement ofthe member 37 toward the left" Fig. .3 relative to the work clamp willcause the work clamp sections to be brought together slightly. Thismember 37 is provided with a roll 61 adapted to engage the periphery 62of'the cam member 29, said peripheryhaving a notch 63 therein which theroll occupies when the parts are at rest. 7 0 isa spring connected tothe member 37 and to the frame and which normally holds the roll incontact with the periphery of the cam member 62. When the machine startsand the cam member begins its rotation in the; direction of the arrow 6,Fig. 3, the periphery 62 of the cam member will by its engagement withthe roll 61 move the lever 37 to the right Fig.3 about its pivot 38,such movement operating through the fins 36 and grooves 35 to contractthe clamp engagement of the roll 61 with the periphery 62 of the cammember 29 these sections will remain contracted during the completerotation of the cam member and while both sets of stitches are beingformed. When the cycle of operations is complete and the notch 63 comesin alinement with the roll 61, the spring 70 will return the arm 37 tothe position shown in Fig. 3 and thus expand or spread the clampingmembers back to their normal position. The expanding movement of saidsections is limited by the engagement of a finger 60 extending from thearm 37 with an adjustable stop screw 59.

The construction herein illustrated also includes means for severingboth the needle and shuttle thread after the stitching operation hasbeen completed. In sewing machines of this general type the needleinserts a loop 71 of needle thread 72 through the fabric and the shuttle5 is then carried through said loop thereby to concatenate the shuttlethread 73 with the needle thread.

My thread-severing device is arranged to sever the shuttle thread 73 andthe side 74 of the'needle thread loop 71 which leads into the cloth atthe time that the last loop is being formed, this operation beingperformed automatically so that when the machine comes to rest at theend of its cycle of operations the thread has been completely severedand the work can be removed from the clamp without drawing out anylength of thread from the shuttle or needle. The thread-severing devicecomprises a thread selector which operates during the formation of thelast stitch to select the two ends 73, 74, see Fig. 2, and "carry saidends latorally into position to be engaged by a thread .cutte Thisthread-selecting device 1 is shown as a curved member 75 provided at itsend with a thread-receiving notch 76. This selecting member is pivotallymounted beneath the bed plate, on a shaft 77, and is acted upon by aspring 78 which tends normally to throw it intoits operative positionshown in Figs. 3 and 7. The shaft 77 has a finger 181 fast thereon whichengages the thread selector 75 as the shaft is turned clock-wise Fig. 7and thereby swings said selector into its inoperative position shown indotted lines Fig. 7. During the formation. of the stitches thisthread-selecting device is held in said inoperative position by means ofa cam '7 9 herein shown as rigid with the cam 27. For this purpose theshaft 77 has rigid therewith, an arm 80 which is connected by. a link 81to a lever 82 pivoted at 83 and having an arm 84' to engage theperiphery of the cam 79. This I cam has the rise 86, concentric portion85 and the fall 87. When the high concentric portion 85 engages the arm84 the thread selector will be held in the dotted line position Fig.7out of the way of the stitchoperating mechanism. The cam 79 is sopositioned that during the formation of the last stitch and while theshuttle 5 is being inserted through the needle loop 71 of the laststitch the portion 87 of the cam comes into position to permit the arm84 to ride theredown, and as this occurs the spring 78 comes into playto move the thread selector 75 into the full line position, Figs. 3, 7and 8. At this time the shuttle and needle threads have approximatelythe position shown in Fig. 2, that is, the loop 71 of the needle threadis spread and the shuttle is passing therethrough while the shuttlethread 73 extends from the shuttle 5 through the guide 88 to the work.The shape and operation of the thread selector 75 is such that when itmoves from its normal or dotted line position Fig. 7 into its full lineposition, or into the dotted line position Fig.- 2 the thread ends 73and 74 will be caught in the notch 76 and carried thereby laterally andto one side of the supply end of the loop 71. The initial movement ofthe thread selector into the position shown in Fig. 2 is accomplishedwhile the shuttle is passing through the loop 71 and thefinal movementinto the dotted line position Fig. 2, or the iull line position Figs. 7and 8 is accomplished after the needle loop 71 has passed over theshuttle and while there is considerable consequent slack in said loop.It will be noted that the inclined portion 87 of the cam 79 is steppedso that the movement of the selector 75 will be an intermittentmovement. This is to permit the initial movement into the position shownin Fig. 2, while the needle loop 71 is comparatively taut by. thepassage of the shuttle therethrough and then to restrain the selector 75from further movement until the shuttle has passed through the loop andthe latter is slack before the member 75 has its complete movement.

When the thread ends have been brought laterally into the dotted lineposition Fig.

2 or into the full line position Figs. 7 and I have herein illustratedmeans actuated by the devices that control the thread selector 75 forcontrolling the movements of the shearing blades. These blades areprovided with extensions 91 having slots 92 therein in which slotsoperates a pin 93 carried by a block 97 that is slidably mounted on aguiding member 95 secured to the base of is moved to the right Fig. 7thereby to cause the shearing blades to close against each other. Theconstruction is such that the arm 98 is not brought into contact withthe block 97 until after the thread ends 73 and 74 have been carriedbetween the shearing members 89, the movement of the block 97 occurringafter the final movement of the thread selector. en the thread selectoris moved back into its dotted line position Fig. 7 the toe 99 thereofengages a shoulder 100 on the block 97 and moves the latter toward theleft Fig. cutting blades again.

101 indicates an adjustable stop adapted to limit the forward movementof the selector 75. 5

Any suitable driving mechanism for the 7 thereby opening the shaft 6 maybe employed and any usual stop motion may be employed to bring the shaft6 to rest whenever the worm gear 30 has made one complete revolution andthe cycle of operations is complete. l[ have not, however, illustratedany particular stop motion here The above-described movement of thethread selector from the full line position Fig. 2 into the dotted lineposition causes both the shuttle. and the needle thread to be drawn ofisomewhat. The needle thread passes through thensual tension device 165by which the tension is applied to the needle thread. The movement ofthe thread selector from the full to the dotted line position is acomparatively rapid one, and in order to obviate any danger that theneedle thread will become broken during this movement, I have providedmeans for releasing the tension on the needle thread which is appliedthereto by the tension 165 at the time the needle and shuttle threadsare being acted upon by the thread'selector. The tension 165 isconstructed as usual with the two friction disks 16.4 and 163 betweenwhich the thread passes. The disk 163 is carried by a rod or thrustmember 162, the end of which is engaged by a sliding actuator 161supported by the overhanging arm 8. This acuated wit a the overhangingarm and pivoted thereto at 158. This lever is connected at its lower endto the arm 37 by means of a connecting member 157 and the constructionis such m. when the lever is in the position shown =in'lBig. 3, thefriction disk 163 is separated from the friction disk 164 through theconnections above described thus relieving the tension on the needlethread, while when the machine is operating and the cam-member 29 hasbeen turned to bring the notch 63 out of line with the roll 61, then thectuator 161 has been withdrawn from the end of thestem 162 so as toallow the friction to operate in usual manner. This is the position ofthe parts while the sewing operation is proceeding, but as soon as thesewing is completed and the notch 63 has come opposite the roll 61, thenthe tension is relieved on the needle thread. It is at this time thatthe thread selector operates so that with the construction abovedescribed the tension on the needle thread will be automaticallyrelieved at the time that the needle thread is moved laterally. by thethread selector.

140 is a usual take-up which acts on the needle thread at the propertime in the cycle of operations to take up the slack therein. Thistake-up is in the form of a lever pivotally connected to the overhangingarm 8 at 141 and connected to a connecting member 142 which in turn isconnected to an actuating lever 143 pivoted to the overhanging arm at144. This lever carries at its lower end a roll which operates in thecam groove 145 formed in a cam member 146. 1 have herein shown this cammember 146 as mounted on the periphery of the crank disk 13, said cammember 146 being held in adjusted position on the crank disk by means ofset screws 147 By loosening the set screws 147 the cam disk 146 can beadjusted about the crank disk 13 thereby to bring the cam groove 145into proper timed relation with the movements of the crank disk toperform properly the stitching operation.

'ile have illustrated herein a selected embodiment of my invention 1 donot wish to be limited to the constructional features shown. Thethread-severing means and thread selector herein shown are not claimedin this application as they have been made the subject of anotherapplication filed by me March 11', 1918, Se. No. 221706.

1 claim: v.

1. In a sewin machine, the combination with a frame, 0 stitch-formingmechanism carried thereby, a blockslidably mounted on the frame, a workclamp pivotally coinnected to the block, first to oscillate the workclamp about its pivot a plurality of times during a plurality ofimmediately successive stitch forming movements of the stitch-formingmechanism and then to vibrate the block in a direction at right anglesto the oscillatory movement of the work clamp.

2. In a sewin machine, the combination with a. frame, 0 stitch-1o M mecht 11 1 and means operating carried thereby, a block slidably mounted onthe frame, awork clamp pivotally connected to the block, means tooscillate the work clamp about its pivot a plurality of'times during aplurality of immediately successive stitchforming movements of thestitchformlng mechanism, and means to vibrate the block on the frame ina direction at work clamp a feeding movement in'the direction of itsoscillatory movement thereby to form a plurality of stitches which crossthe first-named stitches.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame, of astitch-forming mechanism mounted thereon, a work clamp com-- prising twoclamping members pivotally connected together, a block mounted on theframe for sliding movement and to which said clamping members arepivoted, means to oscillate the work clamp about its pivotal connectionwith the block, andmeans to vibrate the bloc'k'in a direction at rightangles to the oscillatory movement of the work clamp.

5. In a sewing with stitch-forming mechanism, of a work clamp made intwo sections, a block to which said work clamp is pivotally connected,

means for oscillating the work clamp about its pivotal connection withthe block, means to vibrate'the blockin a direction at right angles tothe oscillatory movement of the machine, the combination work clamp, andmeans to contract the sectionsof the work clampduring the operation ofthe stitch-formmg mechanism and to spread said work clamp when thestitching is completed.

6. Ina sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, ofa work clamp made in two sections, means including cam mechanism forvibrating the work clamp first in one direction and then in anotherdirection at right angles thereto thereby to form two sets of stitchesextending in different directions, and means to contract the sections ofthe work clamp during the formation of the stitches and to spread saidwork clamp when the stitchingis completed.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism,of a work clamp made in two separable sections, each having an inclinedslot, a clamp-vibrating member having projections operating in saidslots, means to move said clamp-vibrating member in a direction tovibrate the clamp laterally, and means operative at the beginning of thestitching operation to move said member longitudinally of the slotsthereby to contract the clamp.

'8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism,of a work clamp made in two separable sections, a clamp-vibrating memberconnected to said sections, means to actuate said vibrating member tovibrate the clamp laterally, and

means to move saidmember relative to the clamp in a direction at rightangles to its vibratory movement thereby to spread the clamp Intestimony'whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, 1n thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

CHRISTIAN H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

Witnesses:

LOUIS C. SMITH, GEORGE C. HILL.

